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Whenever curating a roll of London’s best eateries, one might anticipate familiar Michelin-starred establishments. However, tucked near the top among these food giants is a unpretentious salonu found in a distant part of north London.

A Unexpected Honour

This compact Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent gastronomic guide. The honour has left the family completely surprised.

“I’m totally astonished,” states a family member, referring to his family’s relentless work that led to their modest restaurant earning such a lofty spot on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

This little venue, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing destination, has retained much of its original charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking performance, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” notes the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the fare, and this restaurant definitely excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a moist, juicy consistency.

It is then added into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. When the flavourful mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is rolled securely inside.

It is often consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic called this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than is typical, giving it a deeper, toastier and not overly sweet taste.

Outranking the Stars

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place satisfied for under £25, similar tasting menus at top-tier establishments can start at many times that price.

The Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is most important is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a role of power, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to show what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

A Path of Dedication

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite establishments. “I am really happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a personal life but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is likely to echo outside its own walls. “I believe a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the broader significance of this gastronomic achievement.